By Ed Masciana
Port, the smooth, opulent and rich dessert wine from Portugal, has been attracting dedicated supporters for nearly 300 years. It has the distinction of probably being the world’s first bottled “vintage” wine (1775), the first demarcated wine region ratified by the government (1678) and undoubtedly the most famous wine uncovered by accident.
Rumor has it that as far back as the 14th Century, red table wine was being exported to England in cask. Because the reds of Portugal were much coarser then their French counterparts, the trip made the wines “sick.” Brandy was added to help preserve them. Oddly enough, the wine which finally docked in England some three months later actually tasted better than the wine that left Portugal!
This revelation, coupled with England’s war with Spain which cut the source of Sherry (a British favorite), obliged them to very seriously look at Portugal as a source of supply for dessert wines. And so, almost 400 years down the road, we have a British “invention,” Port, to the pleasure of many aficionados.
It is because of this British “invention” that most of the premium Port producing houses are British in origin, as opposed to Portuguese. Names like Taylor, Croft, Dow and Grahams are unquestionably British and among the best esteemed names in the world of Port. This condition is shifting, however. Very respected houses are becoming more well-known with names like Quinta da Noval, Martinez and others.
“Port is produced in what must be the most unreachable wine region in the world,” Ben Howkins of Fonseca states emphatically. All true “Port” is grown in the Douro Valley, Portuguese for “river of gold,” on 900 acres of land covered with schist, a crystalline rock. “There is no soil.” says Howkins. “The roots must descend at least TWELVE feet to locate water.” Add to this the climate of the Douro which ranges from over 100 degrees in the summer to below freezing in the winter and one questions how anything can grow at all. “It’s remarkable.”
Port is produced by adding grape spirits to the fermenting wine and that stops fermentation and leaves residual sugar of between 8-14 percent. There are five basic grape varieties which become the master blend of red port with a further five or six potentially in the blend.
In this environment, 29 specialized firms, controlling 55 authorized Port shippers, make a mere 20 million cases of wine or roughly less than 10 % of what the Gallo winery produces! All ports, however are not made identical.
Port is divided into two groups, wood aged and bottle aged, with subdivisions in each group. The very best of all is Vintage Port. This is a bottle aged port which is produced only in the finest vintages, normally 3 out of every ten years making it extremely rare and correspondingly, pricey. After the wine is fermented and fortified in the Douro Valley, it is transported to Vila Nova de Gaia the place where by law each shipper must have his office and cellar. This was done, according to Howkins, to keep a very careful eye on each merchant, guaranteing that they didn’t mix wines from extra areas in with the Port.
After “two winters and one summer” the wine is assessed to ascertain if it’s worthy or being “declared” a vintage. Sample bottles are delivered to the Instituto do Vinho do Porto for analysis. This is only done in exceptional vintages where the sanction from the institute is simply a formality. In spectacular vintages like’ 63, ’77 and’ 85, 91, 94 and 2004 all the merchants announce a “Vintage” and there is a “run” of vintage ports on the market. In marginal vintages like’ 72, ’80 and ’83 some makers declare and others don’t.
These declared wines are a blend of only the finest lots of the vintage. After the wines are declared a vintage, they must be bottled after a minimum of two and a maximum of three years in cask. They then need to age for decades and, in some cases, centuries.
Vintage Character:
The wine that is left over, along with wines which come from non-vintages, can go in to Vintage character Ports. These are wines which emulate vintage ports but do not have the power and intensity. Fonseca’s Bin 27, Croft Character and Sandeman Character Ports are excellent examples. They are generally ready to drink upon release and will not benefit from additional aging.
Late Bottled Vintage:
These are selected wines from single vintages that are aged in cask for four to six years, bottled and then released. These too are normally ready to consume upon release and will not benefit from additional aging.
Single Quinta Vintage:
Such wines can become the nearest to a vintage at less than half the price. They are produced from single “quintas” or vineyards that are of extraordinary quality and virtually always go in to the vintage blend in declared years. Wines like Taylor’s Quinta de Vargellas and Warres Quinta de Cavadhina are prime examples. These Ports are the only ones that, like vintage ports, can really improve in the bottle.
Ruby:
Ordinarily taken from the lesser lots of casks and stocks of wine, Ruby’s are typically aged three to four years in the barrel and available to consume on release. Bright, cherry flavors.
Tawny Aged:
in wood a minimum of three to ten years. Lighter weight than rubys, but more character and flavor. More of a mellow, aged taste reminiscent of caramel and oranges.
Old Tawny:
Labeled as 10, 20, 30 years old, older, which is the average port in the blend. Does not indicate a vintage year. Typically very rare and smooth and likewise steeply-priced.
The great Ports producers
Calem:
Superb producer of creamy, well balanced ports. Usually good values.
Cockburn:
Rich and concentrated with hints of brambleberries and lots of black cherries.
Croft:
The oldest and one of the finest makers. Very rich and intense flavors.
Fonseca:
The first name of the company which was temporarily changed to Guimarãens and then back one more time to Fonseca. Thought of one of the finest and richest made. Purchased by the Yeatman family of Taylor in 1948 but preserves its individual separate operation and style.
Graham:
Known for some of the richest and ripest Ports produced in the area. Also part of the Warre and Dow houses.
Quinta do Noval:
One of the most famous producers which makes the lighter, more easily accessible style of Port.
Sandeman:
One of the biggest shippers of both Port and Sherry, founded in 1790. Full force, very delightful style.
Taylor:
Usually the most significant and most striking Port in any vintage year. The fullest and richest of all. The originator of the “LBV” or Late Bottled Vintage style.
Warres:
The oldest existing Port producer, founded in 1670. Considered one of the best in any year.
Ed Masciana, author of Shortcut On Wine and newsletter editor to the Original Wine of the Month Club has engaged us with great articles on food and wine pairing. Ed has been the start-up Chef of many restaurants in Southern Califiornia. His approach to wine is “no-nonsense” and believes one of the best ways to acquaint oneself with wine and food is join a wine club